Lorraine 2017

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Domremy-la-Pucelle

An anniversary: 30 May 1431, the English burn Jeanne d’Arc in Rouen

Horror grips us
As we watch you die
All we can do is
Echo your anguished cries

Go take your sister then by her hand
Lead her away from this foreign land
Far away where we might laugh again
We are leaving you don’t need us

Château-Guillaume

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Jeanne d’Arc has never been here. However, there is a link. Château-Guillaume is said to have been founded by Guillaume X, duke of Aquitaine, father of Alienor of Aquitaine (1137-1152).

The legend says that Alienor was born right here,  at Château-Guillaume.

It is her marriage to  Henry, Count of Anjou and Duke of Normandy that gave roots to the 100 Years War.

Two years after the wedding Henry and Alienor were crowned as King and Queen of England.

Alienor was also a Queen of France. It was a legal ground for the English to claim France as its domain. (The claim was legally dismissed only in 1789 after the French Revolution abolished the monarchy.)

Meanwhile, the 100 Years’ War was in full swing when Jeanne was born in 1412. By 1428 France had lost half of its territory and, aside from Scotland, had no allies.  The situation was desperate when, at 13, she started hearing her “voix”.

At 16, following the call, she left her home in Domremy and crossed France to meet Dophin Charles at Chinon. The rest is history.

When the English burned her in Rouen she was still a teenager.

Soaked in Lorraine, 2015

fc-kpcnj3vqI had to dry myself and my tent in a hotel. The previous nights were cold and wet. But it’s the trip to Domremy – Vaucouleur that did me in. I was totally soaked.

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The road from Neufchateau to Domremy, just past Coussey. My way is towards the hill on the left. The view from it – over the Meuse valley with the Basilique de Bois Chenu on the other side of the river – is going to be stunning. But I don’t know it yet.

Jeanne d’Arc « on m’appelait Jeannette»

View my books on Jeanne d’Arc:

Jeanne d’Arc en Rouen

Jeanne d’Arc à Chinon

 

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orleans

The Loire at Orleans where the old bridge once stood. The exact location of the battle!

« Pour Jeanne, qui ne fait d’ailleurs qu’utiliser une expression de l’époque, Dieu est Nostre Sire, le Roy (1) ; mais ces expressions, passées dans l’usage et qui ont alors déjà perdu de leur force, retrouvent chez elle toute leur puissance. Elle croit d’une foi absolue à la souveraineté de Dieu ; c’est pour elle une référence constante et la seule motivation de ses actes : « Je m’en actend à mon juge » ; « et à Dieu premier je me rapporte » (2). Elle se demande sans cesse : où est la volonté de Dieu ?
Son évidence depuis toujours est que Dieu veut pour elle l’état de grâce et la fuite du péché. Elle vit en présence de Dieu : « Toujours a Dieu devant la face » (3).
Cette dévotion à l’état de grâce n’était pas fréquente à l’époque et la sainteté se définissait plutôt par les bonnes œuvres, les pénitences ou les prières de style monastique indulgenciées (4). On connaît, au contraire, les mots de Jeanne : « Se elle sçavait qu’elle ne fust en la grâce de Dieu qu’elle seroit la plus dolente du monde » (5).
Le péché n’est d’ailleurs pas d’abord concession à Satan : il n’y a chez elle aucune démonologie ; elle a, en ce domaine notamment, une foi beaucoup plus saine et plus théologale que ses juges. Il est privation de Dieu.
Ce sentiment de la présence de Dieu a été pour Jeanne, en un siècle d’exaspération de la sensibilité religieuse et d’aberrations de la foi chrétienne, un élément d’équilibre et d’épanouissement : la devotio moderna, en organisant les « exercices » de la piété chrétienne, suscitait chez certains scrupule – le mal du siècle – ou tension. Gerson lui-même n’en finit pas de rappeler à ses sœurs leurs divers devoirs moraux ou spirituels (6).
Elle se maintient donc dans un état de parfaite disponibilité : « prendre tout en gré ». Tandis que bientôt l’Imitation, dans son livre I, révélera l’inquiétude de l’âme tourmentée entre Dieu et le monde, Jeanne ressemble déjà au « bon homme paisible », que définira par la suite l’Internelle Consolation, traduction de l’Imitation sans doute, mais à laquelle une nouvelle distribution des livres donne aussi un ton nouveau, celui d’une confiance tranquille (7). Pour cette fille de la campagne, ignorante des effusions mystiques et des ravissements de moniales nourries du Cantique ou de tertiaires familières avec les maîtres de l’oraison, il ne s’agit pas de s’attarder en une contemplation consolée, mais d’« aimer de tout son coeur » (7 bis) le Sire qui lui fait connaître sa volonté. »

Crossing France, “il est décédé”

It took me about 10 days to cross France from Meuse to Chinon where I hoped to see my old friend Jean-Pierre.

Sadly, the woman who opened the door said that he had died. “Il est décédé.”

1925155_10152414896587029_283977812704540778_nThe river Vienne at Chinon. I can’t believe Jean-Pierre is dead.

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Jargeau. Jeanne’s first successful assault on the English after Orleans.

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Leaving Domremy la Pucelle on a rainy day… Basilique du Bois-Chenu.

The angel that gives Jeanne a sword is a scary concept. Think about it. The voice of God urges her to go and kill. And probably be killed back.

The church refused to recognize Jeanne until 1920.

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Research –  Oregon USA. It was a mistake to rely on the newest publications. The newer they are the less they are specific, when it comes to actual travel routes.  In fact, they don’t seem to care. The latest French GPS maps of Jeanne d’Arc routes are made for car travel.

In other words, if you follow them you are in the AREA of her routes but almost never on the actual road that she took.

The best publications, as it turns out, are from the late XIX. Precice.

The Loire Campaign, 1429

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My lunch at Meung-sur-Loire

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Beaugency, Loiret. The tower on the left is where the English troops found rescue when Jeanne d’Arc and her army crossed this bridge from the south in June 1429.

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Another campsite.

eifouyvxq4kLa Loire near Orleans. I am on the Sologne (French) side. The English troops were on the other side during the Loire campaign of the summer 1429.

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Here’s my little statue, provenance de Ebay.

The Loire Valley

37w2s8mhq0mLe matin a Noyon.

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hw88idy_lheSully sur Loire

 

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Loches. The tomb of Agnes Sorel, the official mistress of Charles VII. The king for whom Jeanne gave her life in Rouen.

In 2005 they excavated the tomb and examined the DNA. The facial part of the skull is well-preserved. There is an exhibition of the finds, next to the effigy.

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The Chinon valley along the Vienne river is all covered with famous vineyards.

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Some roads are not good for the small bike wheels!  This one could be from the Roman times.

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My green tent and the Brompton. Camping in Chinon

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The Chinon castle. People picnicking on the beach. In France, you can drink wine anywhere you like.

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A morning in Bléré.  Stopping for a coffee and a croissant.

epycjlonnuoMy lunch in Blois

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The bridge that the French army crossed as the first move against the English to liberate Orleans. The army and supplies had been assembled at Blois. Jeanne’s title was “Chef de guerre” – the chief of war. She took command of the troops at the age of 16.

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La réserve de Chambord

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Boring

Jeanne d’Arc

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vhxpypjwo2oLoches

mwexiga1hesL’ile de Bouchard

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The most amazing church in France – l’ile de Bouchard. Jeanne d’Arc attended mass here before arriving at Chinon the next day. You HAVE to see it to believe it.

veuadm4t_-uL’ile de Bouchard, the interior

ossj490yngcGien

c4_fqhef3sqVers the Loire valley

utmhpmszlloJeanne d’Arc spent the winter of 1429/1430 in this castle.

06eeifsy_kmLa port de France a Vaucouleurs (Meuse). Jeanne left through this gate in the winter of 1429, to Chinon.

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Meuse and Lorraine, you see her everywhere

hso435tv94iBiking to Vauculeurs was hard because of the bad weather!

i1wwvtxd6g0Hey, I made it to Domremy!

z3yrgfu4a1oLa maison natale de Jeanne d’Arc, Domremy

pwgiyxltm3wThis is the room where she grew up.

qrhqpdp7_x8Bois Chênu, the famous forest where she used to go to.

hgdk9vzwnnoThis is actually quite scary. An angel giving you the order to kill… and get killed

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It’s more than enough for one day